French Polynesia – First Taste

Approximately June 29 at 11:22 a.m. we conclude our first long ocean passage with landfall in Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia.  We are delighted when “old” friends we know from Ecuador paddle over to welcome us.   We learn that another boat was dismasted the week before and a crowd of volunteers gather daily in the parking lot to assist with building a new mast from the wreckage.  The young owner works like a man possessed to get underway because his sweetheart is waiting for him in Papeete.

   Ev is a Frenchman we know from Bahia Caraquez seen here supervising rigging the mast.

The anchorage is about a forty minute walk from the commercial center of town.  Along the road, we snap a pic of this beach where the local school has broad frontage.  Not a bad location eh?

Surf on the beach backed by lush green jungle.

School just out of sight to the right.

This mountain hides in cloud most of the time so we snap a photo when the mist clears.

View from Kalliope at anchor

 View of Kalliope at anchor

On an excursion in a rental car shared with another couple we tour the north side of the island and some sights along the way include horses cooling off in the surf.

Horses are used for transportation and hauling loads like coconuts 

Marquesian mariners are particular about boat design and a flat bottom will not do for beach landings in the surf.  This type of boat is used for errands and inshore fishing and often carries a small outboard.

Searching the Jungle for petroglyphs, Deb indulges her inner botanist.

Our arrival coincides with preparations for celebration of Bastille Day.  Here a lady weaves palms to decorate the hall for the evening dance festival.

The Bastille Day Gala is a large undertaking for a small town and on Hiva Oa represents a celebration of the culture of the Marquesan people.  The band is made up mostly of drummers and the music supports the lady dancers whose moves are well choreographed and very “hip.”  The next two photos are dedicated to our friend Andy D. back in Alaska who is an avid and talented drummer.  We hope the third image conveys some idea of the dancing.

This drum is so tall that the drummer stands on a stool to get a comfortable angle to beat the drum with his palms.

The band warms up

There are over thirty dancers who mime the planting, cultivating, harvesting, cooking and eating breadfruit.  There are several costume changes, the rhythm of the drums and smiles of the island girls.

Soon we will try to post the video – Much Better